Back to the 90s: Tate exhibition will explore decade’s art and fashion

Steve McQueen’s first major film, a tribute by Chris Ofili to Doreen and Stephen Lawrence, and images of young people at club nights including the Haçienda will be exhibited at Tate Britain as part of its 90s exhibition.

The show will explore art and fashion during a decade that reshaped Britain’s cultural identity and “established conditions that are still with us”, said Edward Enninful, the former editor of British Vogue who is curating the exhibition.

Set to launch this autumn, The 90s: Art and Fashion will feature work from nearly 70 artists, photographers and designers, from the Young British Artists to Alexander McQueen and Damien Hirst.

It will spotlight young artistic talent that emerged during the period and give audiences the opportunity to reconsider the time as a turning point in British art. The exhibition will include artists whose work drew attention to those largely excluded from the dominant Cool Britannia narrative of the time.

Young Pink Kate, London (1998). Photograph: Juergen Teller/PA

Among the work featured is Steve McQueen’s first major film, Bear (1993), a cinematic portrayal of an intimate face-off between two men; Ofili’s Turner prize-winning painting No Woman, No Cry (1998), which he made in tribute to the Lawrences; and video by Keith Piper reflecting on sport and national identity.

Tate said the exhibition would open with an exploration of the period’s “do it yourself” attitude, with photography by Corinne Day, Nigel Shafran and Juergen Teller – who were at the forefront of defining the “anti-fashion” grunge style – for publications including i-D and Dazed & Confused.

Barbara Walker, Jenny Saville and Gillian Wearing, who used real people as muses, will also feature, as well as Tracey Emin, Sam Taylor‑Johnson and Sarah Lucas, who captivated the public with their anarchic spirit and frank work tackling agency, identity and class.

The decade’s youthful attitude will be captured in film and photography, from Mark Leckey’s 1999 film Fiorucci Made Me Hardcore to images documenting young people at club nights including the Haçienda in Manchester and Bagley’s in London.