‘We feel let down’: sustainable chefs in UK mourn end of Michelin green star

“The fact we were recognised by Michelin was a fantastic boost for us, and definitely led people to us who care about the same things,” she said. “It was amazing publicity to send people to our farmhouse restaurant on the North York Moors.

“For us, we will continue to work on what we feel passionate about, and hope that green star or no green star, people will continue to come and experience a taste of the moors with us.”

Culture restaurant in Falmouth serves fish from the local market and mushrooms grown nearby. Its owner, Hylton Espey, said he felt the news from Michelin about the retirement of its green star ‘could have been handled better’. Photograph: Linda Hermans

Instead of the star, the Michelin Guide will produce Mindful Voices, a “global editorial platform” about sustainable restaurants and the people “pioneering new approaches in the fields of gastronomy, hospitality and wine”. Mindful Voices will not bestow any official accolade on any restaurant featured, so restaurants do not view it as a replacement for the star.

The Guide has not given a reason for phasing out the stars, but has said all 37 restaurants that currently hold a star will lose the accolade at the end of the year.

Milburn believes it is because the green star too closely resembles a Michelin star. While one is awarded for sustainability, the other is given to fine-dining restaurants that meet exacting criteria for quality of cooking and service.

“In all fairness, there was a bit of confusion about the green star. People would turn up and say: ‘We heard you have a Michelin star,’” he said. “From the outset the branding for the star wasn’t right – it looks too much like a Michelin star.”

But restaurateurs still feel the change is unfair. Jan Ostle, the head chef and co-owner of Wilsons in Bristol, which serves produce from its market garden, was incredibly proud of hers. “My heart also goes out to the people who won green stars this year. For it to be retired the very same year seems unfair.”

But she hoped the change also showed that where sustainable menus were once exceptional, they had now become the norm. “Practices such as working closely with local growers, reducing waste, improving staff culture and thinking more carefully about sourcing should really just be part of what defines a good modern restaurant,” she said.

A spokesperson for the Michelin Guide said: “The Michelin Guide wishes to reaffirm clearly its commitment to a more responsible approach to gastronomy. The Guide’s ambition is evolving towards a broader and more universal expression, one that now encompasses our three pillars of excellence: gastronomy, hospitality and wine.

“In the context of a strong international expansion to more than 60 destinations, the introduction of Mindful Voices should not be seen as a step backwards, but rather as a progression designed to reinforce this commitment.”