Prada launches Indian-made sandals after cultural appropriation backlash

Italian luxury brand Prada has launched a limited-edition line of sandals inspired by India's traditional Kolhapuri sandals, nearly a year after it faced criticism over cultural appropriation.

The company said the new sandals, reportedly priced at €750 ($881; £650) a pair, have been manufactured in India by artisans from the states of Maharashtra and Karnataka, where the sandals are traditionally made.

Prada faced backlash last June after it presented similar designs at a Milan fashion show without referring to their Indian origins.

At the time, the brand described the toe-loop footwear simply as "leather sandals". The company later acknowledged the design's Indian roots.

The collection is being sold across 40 Prada stores worldwide and online, with each pair handmade by artisans. The brand said the line "combines traditional techniques with contemporary design and premium materials", creating what it described as "a dialogue between Indian heritage and modern luxury expression".

Prada also announced a three-year training programme for artisans from eight Indian districts associated with making Kolhapuri sandals.

The programme, developed in collaboration with two Indian design institutes, will train 180 artisans in six-month modules. Some participants may also have the opportunity to continue training at the Prada Group Academy in Italy, the company said.

Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada Group's head of corporate social responsibility, said the initiative aims to support artisans by strengthening skills, preserving traditional knowledge and helping local communities sustain the craft.

Tanu Kashyap, director general of National Institute of Fashion Technology, one of the collaborating institutions in India, added that the programme would also help promote traditional Indian crafts in global markets.

• Why Prada – and other luxury brands – keep getting India wrong

Named after the city of Kolhapur in Maharashtra, Kolhapuri sandals date back to the 12th Century and are traditionally made from leather, often using natural dyes suited to hot climates.

They were granted Geographical Indication status by the Indian government in 2019, a certification that recognises their regional origin and authenticity. In India, they typically sell for between 500 rupees ($5.29; £3.91) and 1,000 rupees - far below the price of Prada's luxury versions.

The sandals, like many Indian handicrafts, have long been at the centre of debates over the use of traditional designs by international brands, with designers and industry experts raising concerns about limited recognition and returns for artisans.