Dolce & Gabbana showcased its SS27 menswear collection at Milan Fashion Week, emphasizing a bold Italian aesthetic. The show aimed to divert attention from the brand's recent controversies and management changes.
Key points
Dolce & Gabbana showcased its SS27 menswear collection at Milan Fashion Week
The show featured a bold Italian aesthetic with revealing outfits
It aimed to divert attention from debt issues and management changes
This was the first show since Stefano Gabbana stepped down as chairman
The brand has faced multiple controversies, including an all-white casting
Mentioned in this story
Dolce & GabbanaStefano Gabbana
Dolce & Gabbana leaned heavily into the art of theatrical misdirection on the second day of Milan fashion week as it aimed to draw attention away from its debt issues, catwalk controversies and management reshuffles.
On the catwalk its signature “molto sexy” Italian aesthetic that comes served with a generous scoop of la dolce vita was in full swing. This was Euro summer on steroids. There were clingy muscle vests and micro shorts that made short shorts look modest while some models simply went topless. Jeans came ripped, shredded or smothered in sparkling jewels while T-shirts featured everything from giant prints of Sicilian lemons and ancient amphitheatres to a mosaic depiction of Christ.
The SS27 show was its first menswear collection since its disastrous all-white casting earlier this year, which joined the brand’s long list of previous controversies. It also marked the brand’s first show since Stefano Gabbana stepped down as chairman.
Male models on the runway, coastal imagery behind them
The Dolce & Gabbana runway on Saturday. Photograph: Pietro D’Aprano/Getty Images
Dolce & Gabbana model
Dolce & Gabbana menswear model. Photograph: Pietro D’Aprano/Getty Images
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana
Q&A
What were the main themes of Dolce & Gabbana's SS27 menswear show?
The main themes included a theatrical Italian aesthetic with clingy muscle vests, micro shorts, and bold prints, embodying a 'molto sexy' style.
What controversies has Dolce & Gabbana faced recently?
The brand has faced controversies including a disastrous all-white casting earlier this year and ongoing debt issues.
Who stepped down as chairman of Dolce & Gabbana?
Stefano Gabbana stepped down as chairman, marking a significant change for the brand during this show.
How did Dolce & Gabbana attempt to address its debt issues during the show?
The brand used theatrical misdirection in its runway presentation to draw attention away from its debt issues and management reshuffles.
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Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana acknowledge the applause of the audience after their show at Milan fashion week on Saturday. Photograph: Pietro D’Aprano/Getty Images
In March it was announced the designer had tendered his resignation last December as chair of the company he co-founded with his then partner Domenico Dolce in 1985. In January as part of the reshuffle the former Gucci chief executive Stefano Cantino was appointed co-chief executive working alongside Alfonso Dolce, a brother of Domenico. Gabbana’s role as co-creative director remains unaffected.
In a turbulent luxury market, the fashion house has found itself left trying to navigate a £391m debt pile. This week there were reports that, as part of negotiations with creditors, the brand is considering a potential sale and leaseback of several properties it owns in the city. While the brand continues to dominate the red carpets during award season (Colman Domingo, Patrick Schwarzenegger and Ryan Gosling are fans) a wider luxury slump has left the brand struggling. Saturday’s show was a reminder to its fans of what it does best – excess.
Later in the day, the British leader of menswear Paul Smith who has been showing in Milan since 2025 also honed in on his speciality – suiting. Backstage Smith credited the suit’s resurgence to young people not wanting to dress like gen X. “A lot of our customers grew up with their dads wearing hoodies during the pandemic,” Smith said. “Those kids are now 18-25 years old and don’t want to look like their dad. They want to smarten up.”
Model on the runway at the Paul Smith show.
The Paul Smith show. Photograph: WWD/Getty Images
Model on the runway at the Paul Smith show.
On the runway at the Paul Smith show. Photograph: WWD/Getty Images
Paul Smith on the runway at the Paul Smith show
Paul Smith on the runway at the Paul Smith show. Photograph: WWD/Getty Images
The designer pointed to Harry Styles who has shifted from flamboyant on-stage outfits to pared-back tailoring and ties for his latest Together Together tour as embodying the trend. Smith, who turns 80 next month, said his younger team had dug out 80s and late 90s catwalk tailoring references from his Nottingham-based archive, which is home to over 5,000 of his pieces.
“The suit in many people’s heads means formality or funerals or weddings,” Smith said. “A lot of what we try to do is show how it can be more relaxed so we roll the cuffs up, or pop the collar up or style the shirts untucked.” On the catwalk there were also unbuttoned waistcoats and, at times, shirts too offering a glimpse of flesh.
Smith who still works in his Albemarle Street store in London on Saturday afternoons, described his suits as “being a bit different” and having “perceived value” pointing to pad stitching that ensures the fabric curves around the body, lightweight fabrics that don’t crease easily and quirky details such as crocodile eye buttons and lapel pins riffing on everything from teaspoons to sardines.
