Greetings from Maputo, Mozambique's capital, shaped by a modernist architecture

Matt Ozug/NPR

I took a ride on a tuk-tuk motorcycle taxi around Maputo, Mozambique, with my buddy and fellow All Things Considered producer, Vincent Acovino. We were in the country reporting on changes to U.S. funding for AIDS in Africa.

Vinny noticed it first: There was something magical about a number of the concrete apartment blocks and government offices here. With half a day off and a little googling, we gave ourselves an impromptu tour of the architecture of Amâncio "Pancho" Guedes. The late Portuguese-born architectdesigned some pretty cool buildingsherein the 1950s and '60s. They include the Prédio Abreu, Santos e Rocha pictured above, and other structures with evocative names like The Smiling Lion apartment block and the Lemon Squeezer church. Step into a small interior stairwell of The Dragon House, and you see a mural in sparkling black and white stone of a spiky dragon with a toothy grin. It transforms what would otherwise be a dim stairwell.

Guedes designed more than 500 buildings in the city, from churches to bakeries. I don't have the language to capture it: the use of heavy materials, combined with the playful use of shapes and murals. "Eclectic Modernist," I later learned, is how his work is described. One critic wrote that his work brilliantly mixes the "sculptural and figurative with practical requirements and traditional local identity."

Maputo will change and I have to imagine not all of his work will survive. But stumbling into a town with a visual landscape that still shows Guedes' thumbprint was a delight. For an afternoon, riding through the city streets in the open-air tuk-tuk, looking for what might have been his handiwork was a good time. Like an Easter egg hunt in concrete.

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